I’ve just finished a Russian TV dinner - Borshch (the classic Russian
soup, in which beetroot features strongly), kutleti (a bit like burgers) and
rice in front of the European Volleyball championship semis. Russia just lost
to Serbia after blowing about 6 match points. Serbians seem to be quite good at coming from behind… I managed to get tickets to the Olympic men’s volleyball
bronze medal match, so I’m cultivating an interest. One of my favourite things
about it is that every team has to have a token ‘small guy’ who wears a
different colored vest to the others…
I don’t usually eat in front of the TV, but Grandma Tamara is away
at the Dacha harvesting more cucumbers and marrows, so I’m by myself. I don’t
mind being alone, but I miss coming home every day and being presented with
more food than I could possibly eat. Tamara was born in the 1930s in the Ural
mountains (central Russia), so she has lived through a lot. I asked her about
the war this week, and although she was very young at the time she clearly remembers
it vividly. She told me about her father going away to the front and coming
back with blind in one eye. He was one of the lucky ones though. One brother
didn’t come back at all, and the other lost both his legs. She told me about
how hungry they were, and how she couldn’t understand why there was no bread,
and how, even though they lived deep in the interior, they still had to shelter
from occasional air raids. Although the USSR ultimately won the “Great
Patriotic War”, as they call it here (it can’t be WWII, because WWI doesn’t
really feature in Russian history books… maybe because it went so badly for
them), they lost 23 million citizens. In every Russian city an “eternal flame”
burns in memory of them. Petrozavodsk’s memorial is flanked by red flowers
(blood) and overlooked by an enormous statue of Lenin. I walk past it them both
on the way to university - humbling reminders of how much Russians have
suffered.
On a lighter note, I tried out the university tourism club this
week, expecting them to organise a few relaxed walks in the forest or trips to
St Petersburg. However, I was wrong. Tourism in Russia is not for the faint
hearted - indeed, their trips are so extreme that those who survived were all
awarded certificates in the meeting! From what I understood (which was not a
lot…) they go on multi-day rafting, mountain biking and cross country skiing
trips. From their photos, it looked pretty intense. However, more impressive
than this was their trip to Kamchatka. For those of you who don’t share my
obsession with remote places, Kamchatka is a peninsula in the Russian far East,
sort of north of Japan. As well as being one of the world’s most beautiful
places, it is also one of the most remote, only accessible by sea and air. Last
year the tourism club not only went there, they climbed an very high active
volcano. I was well impressed.
I’m settling in to the choir - we have concerts on Monday and
Wednesday next week which should be fun. We’ve been singing an excerpt from
Handel’s Messiah, and it’s been entertaining trying to teach them to pronounce
words properly (Ze Keengdom of zis vorld etc). Still, I should’t criticise - we
sang in Russian yesterday and I was hopeless! Encouragingly, I can now
understand about 50% of what the conductor says, so I am less likely to come in
before everyone else and make a fool of myself, like I did on Wednesday!
I also had my first (and hopefully only) experience of a Russian
medical centre this week - in order to renew our visas we had to have a HIV
test, regardless of the fact that we had to have one in the UK in order to get
our visa in the first place. Still, as long as we make it difficult for
Russians to get to Britain they’ll keep making it hard for us.
I’ve been here two weeks now and it’s been so much better than I
could have expected. Though Russians are often cold and impolite in public
places - if you don’t fight your way through a door you’ll never get through,
and you only get a “thank you” once in a blue moon - their friendliness and
warmth in other contexts has been amazing. I’ve made friends at choir, at
church (where I even met a Bolivian missionary) and at the Christian centre. I
might be able to have a birthday party next Saturday after all!
Posing in front of another Revolutionary's statue. |
A revolutionary in his own way! He toppled Lord Farquad and he got his swamp back! |
After the war Petrozavodsk's main factory, which used to make weapons, was converted to make tractors like this one! |
Can you see a rainbow? |
It really rained - gave me the chance to teach my Russian friend about the phrase "raining cats and dogs." |
And the main street (Lenin street - no prizes for originality) became a river. |
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